The Ruined Ruins

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 The Ruins of Drugyal Dzong before the reconstruction
Picture from Google

I have a deep affection for ruins. I love the stories that old and broken things have to tell and everything they remain for. The ruins of Drukgyal Dzong in Paro is something I have always admired, not just as a patriotic Bhutanese but also as a student of architecture.

But as they say, “You raze the old to raise a new,” the reconstruction of a new structure has already begun and has even reached half way through. This initiation seems to be welcomed and even celebrated by many, but I can’t explain the sore feeling it gives me every time I think about it. The ruins were something that preserved glory and heroism of wars Bhutan had fought four hundred years ago.

The thick walls of rammed earth held such strength that could not be demolished by any foreign attacks but rather stood high and bold to scare away enemies. The walls stretch along the hill looking as if it grew out of it and nothing could explain an organic architecture better. I borrow this line from George R R Martin’s A Song Of Ice And Fire- the courtyard rang to the song of swords-a song that sang victory.

The structure stood on a hill overlooking the villages below and creating a sense of protection with just a sight of it. Its grandeur told us the history we are proud of today and also promised inspirations in future. And all these remain as yet another history of a history we could have only imagined.

I paid my last visit to the place in hopes of having one last look at the ruins but it certainly got me disheartened because the main structure has already been torn down to the ground. The new structure replacing it has reached its peak and excavators have made their way through and the construction is in full swing.

It is hard not to care more about the completely different outlook a new structure is going to set for the new generations. Moreover, the fascinating history of wars and victory is going to be more blurred than it is now (And for this one reason I could consider myself lucky).
But may be a change is better. May be the new structure will promise a greater history.




Comments

  1. UnknownMarch 18, 2017 at 2:23 AM

    Guess i will never see the ruins.🤔

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sonam ChodenMarch 25, 2017 at 2:41 AM

      Yeah. But may be you'll be back to see some last bits of it? This summer.

      Delete

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